The Truth About Waste & Fashion
Since our evolution from hunters and gatherer, humanity has become a community dependent on air, water, and heat for survival. Protecting the body from the natural ailments that can penetrate and nourish it for stamina. Each sourced to supply themselves and used to produce clothing, sourcing resources from nature to create raw and synthetical materials.
Collectively the fashion industry produces 20% of global wastewater (1) and consumes 2.6% of the planet’s surface area to grow cotton—that’s enough land to feed over 200 million people (2). Devouring excessively to produce large demand for clothes, the industry faces serious issues when it comes to waste. It’s estimated that every one second, the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or burned (2).
Why Fast Fashion Means More Trash
Within Fast Fashion, retailers quickly change trends to stimulate more sales with little consideration for the production process or quality, contributing to consumer’s perception of clothing as disposable. Today, the average clothing utilization (the average time a garment is worn before discarded) is between 2.2 to 3.3 years—but can expect the lifespan to be less than ½ for younger demographics (3). Worldwide, clothing utilization has decreased by 36% compared to 15 years ago (1) while clothing consumption has gone up by 400% over the last 20 years (3). The psychological and behavioral change shoppers have towards the value of their clothes is affecting more than just their ability to purchase, but their inability to keep clothes longer. Today, consumers on average throw away 80 pounds of clothing and shoes per person (3), that’s about 84% of clothes sold that end up being either landfilled or incinerated (5) or an industry loss of $500 billion wasted (6).
Unfortunately, the increase in consumption hasn’t caught the attention of the greater industry and recycling practices and waste efficiency is still a niche solution. Of all the clothing consumed each year less than 1% of garments are recycled into new clothing and only 20% of textiles are recycled at all (3). Implementing recycling and reusing practices as a norm within the fashion industry could stop 20 tons of CO 2 from entering the atmosphere per every ton of discarded textiles (3). Given that the industry accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions, industrial adoption could greatly aid the current trajectory towards climate change (1). The environmental threat from fashion waste dives deeper than the atmosphere, polluting waterways and oceans each year.
Waste & Water
Polyester, a carbon-intensive, petroleum-based product that can be made to look like silk, cotton, or faux fur. Known to improve textile performance at a low cost when combined with natural materials, accounts for 65% of global fibers used in the industry. These kinds of synthetic, plastic fibers are releasing enough microfibers that by 2050 it’s estimated there will be more plastic in the ocean than fish (7) and each year, the number of microfibers released from clothes is equivalent to 50 million plastic bottles (6).
Most of us wear synthetic fabrics like polyester every day. Our dress shirts, yoga pants, fleeces, and even underwear are all increasingly made of synthetic materials -- plastic, in fact.
Of all the plastics entering the ocean, 86% come from Asia, where the use of plastic disposables is skyrocketing, recycling infrastructure has yet to be built and 86% of polyester textiles are manufactured (7). This kind of waste ends up contaminating fish, ecosystems and eventually, all seafood consumed, considering the 70% of global fish sales that come from Asia-Pacific (Food Navigator).
Not All Involved Are Bad
Fortunately, there are suppliers and brands within the niche segment of the industry committed to pioneering sustainable alternatives to combat industry waste and innovate closed loop processes. Luxury players like Stella McCartney and Burberry are utilizing their business to influence collective change. From launching United Nation charters combating unsustainable practices to banning the burning of unsold inventory, brands alike are making incremental changes into their day-to-day operations to curb the immense damage.
Fashion Players that are Re-Designing Waste
Conserve India, the ethical fashion manufacturer works with waste-pickers to supply 80% of the company’s raw recyclable materials, living by their guideline to “use everything that comes from the waste stream” (7). This kind of disruptive thinking is raising awareness within the business of fashion and amongst consumers, inviting more brands to follow suit and individuals to make more conscious purchases.
Other suppliers like Pure Waste Textiles focus on cotton because of its favoritism in the industry (it is the world’s most used natural fiber [8]), but limited availability of recycled products, led them to create 100% recycled raw cotton materials. Sourcing from the 11 million tons of textile waste trashed annually, Pure Waste saves 2,700 liters of water per shirt, uses 0 harmful chemicals, and 90% of renewable energy during production. Addressing the 3 million tons of cotton wasted (enough material to manufacture 3 t-shirts for every person on the planet) throughout the textile process, this supplier is changing the narrative around textile waste (2).
Following similar initiatives in producing raw materials, ERVNU, Pinatex ®, and ECOALF are making circular fashion popular.
The Shirt, The Planet, and You
The transition from niche to norm is driven by awareness of brands, organizations, and suppliers willing to do fashion better, but also the consumer choosing to use their freedom to shop, care and discard of clothes differently.
When looking for new garments, do more research. Check out what types’ textiles can be recycled and look for brands carrying these products. If a garment only lasts for a maximum of 3.3 years, then look for clothes that are built to last, defying this standard.
Secondly, shop and donate second-hand. Just because clothes are no longer wanted or of use, doesn’t mean they need to be trashed. This not only lowers carbon emissions released but prevents microplastic pollution.
Last, pay attention to care instructions. This is vital in committing to lengthening product life-cycle. Not all clothes are machine wash or dryer friendly so pay attention to the way clothes are meant to be treated. Most microplastic shedding occurs during wash cycles, so start hand-washing and line-drying clothes to cut back on water and keep oceans clean. Industry waste is a collective issue but built on individual behavior. Make changes today to prevent the permanent impact of tomorrow.
Brought by Dhana Inc.